Throughout a two-year period during the conflict in Gaza, every festive public event for Christmas were cancelled within the city of Bethlehem in the occupied West Bank. This place is believed to be where Christians believe Jesus was born.
However, following the recent ceasefire, the holy city determined that now the festivities would return, as represented by the illumination of its customary, large holiday tree before the ancient Church of the Nativity.
"It's been a bad two years without celebration; no holiday, no employment, no income," states Bethlehem Mayor Maher Canawati. "We're all living here from tourism and tourism was down to nothing."
The mayor accepts that the decision to restart festivities was not without debate, as suffering continues within Gaza β including for those in its small Christian population, who often have relatives to Bethlehem.
"Certain voices argue it's not appropriate while others contend it's appropriate," the mayor notes. "But deep inside my heart, I believed this constituted the right thing to do since Christmas should never be halted or abandoned. This represents a beacon of hope for our community."
Residents β from both Christian and Muslim faiths β pose for selfies in front of the tree decorated with red and gold baubles at Manger Square. They are accompanied by a handful of foreign tourists.
Brightly coloured lights now adorn city streets with signs advertising Christmas bazaars and children's parties.
"We're very happy to have the tree, first of all, and to welcome visitors to Bethlehem and to have the chance to celebrate Christmas in its authentic spirit," comments Bethlehem designer Nadya Hazboun.
"This is where it all started, so this is where we can send a message globally of what really Christmas should be about. And this year, if Christmas is peaceful, I sincerely hope it will bring a nice message for the whole world."
Nearby towns of Beit Jala and Beit Sahour are also planning to illuminate Christmas trees soon. Hotels β which have stood largely empty for two years β have an influx of bookings from Arab citizens of Israel along with certain international tourists.
A visitor from Russia, Angelica, is making her second pilgrimage to this region. "In my view everyone needs to come at minimum one time during their lifetime," she says.
"I hope a lot of people will return soon as it is sorrowful without many tourists. The only thing that's good is there are no long lines β you can come and see more things. On my prior visit it was necessary to wait in a queue for hours minimum."
For now, the gift shops scattered throughout Bethlehem have little business, and near the pale walls of the Nativity Church, which originate from the Fourth Century, guides are mostly unoccupied. Prior to the conflict, it was typically packed with people.
"Bethlehem is a tourist city; without tourism there is no life," expresses one guide Hamza. "We aspire to see individuals returning like before: from Europe, the Middle East, the Americas, Latin American and everywhere. We begin with lighting the tree, and then we will wait."
In the past two years, unemployment has skyrocketed within Bethlehem. Since the deadly attacks led by Hamas in southern Israel during October 2023 that sparked the war, many thousands of Palestinian workers from the West Bank have been prevented from entering Israel and Israeli settlements for work.
Meanwhile, government employees have received just a portion of their wages from the Palestinian Authority (PA) β which governs parts of the West Bank. The PA relies on tax revenues gathered by Israel, which it is withholding β to the tune of 1.76 billion dollars, according to the UN's trade and development agency.
Israel says it is holding these funds because the Authority provides payments to Palestinian prisoners that incentivise violence against Israelis. The PA β facing international pressure to make reforms β claims it has recently changed its welfare system.
The grim economic outlook implies that for numerous Christian Palestinians, even though there are currently public festivities in addition to religious ceremonies, it will be a subdued holiday season.
On the periphery of the square, some patrons wait to purchase sizzling balls of falafel from a row of shops.
"We're preparing for the holiday after one of our hardest periods as Palestinians and as a Christian community," says one restaurant owner, an owner of a restaurant called Afteem, a decades-old family restaurant which has seen its income plummet. He says lately numerous families could not even purchase falafel β a cheap, traditional snack.
"The faithful will attempt to mark the occasion but according to their circumstances," Mr Salameh expects. "An individual wishing to bring their children to a festive event or a show or similar, they lack the money to expend for this celebration."
In the cave-like grotto beneath the Nativity Church, a local woman accompanies a small Indian tour group, stooping down near a silver star which marks the spot where tradition states Jesus was born and igniting a light close by.
Amid ongoing high tensions across the region, Bethlehem residents state they are praying for peace β and hoping for tourists to come back to the location which is thought to be Christmas began.
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